The Ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro - The Highest Peak in Africa
Liz McCarty and her husband, Howard Jones began a climb of Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro on July 21, 2002. On the 28th, they stood triumphantly on Uhuru Peak, 19,344 feet skyward. From jungle to ice and snow and back again, a climb of Kilimanjaro is full of surprises. A few pictures from the climb follow.
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As
we began our ascent of Kilimanjaro, we walked through a dense, but beautiful
jungle. At night, exotic Colobus monkeys produced a chorus of sound
that was both eerie and awesome. When they would go quiet, we were awakened by the unearthly sounds of hyraxes gradually rising to a crescendo and
then fading into the darkness of the night.
On
the second day of the climb, we gradually worked our way toward the Shira
Plateau. As we gained altitude, the jungle slowly thinned. Here's a
photo in the transition zone. The colors were gorgeous, especially in the
light of early morning.
Mountain
Madness guided our trip with help from a company called African Environments. It was
"first class" all the way. With only nine climbers, we had 51
porters, six kitchen staff and four guides. One of our favorites was
"egg man". He started out the climb with roughly a thousand eggs
on his head. After every breakfast, his load gradually diminished. He's shown here carrying his partial load up the mountain.
By
the end of the second day, we'd gained enough altitude that temperatures were
becoming quite cool at night. The profile of the famous mountain was ever present
as is seen behind Liz. The mountain's appearance would
change drastically as we continued our ascent from here.
As
we prepared for dinner on the third day, Liz got out her company banner and
asked some of the porters to hold it for a picture. Clearly, we got plenty
of help. These guys were always smiling, laughing and ready to assist in
any way possible. We couldn't have asked for a better group.
By
the time we'd reached 16,000 feet, the mountain's appearance had changed
dramatically. We were getting close to the snow and ice, evenings were
getting quite cold and the winds were reminding us that great mountains, even
near the equator, could be very inhospitable places. Here Liz stands with
the rock walls and ledges leading to the summit plateau behind her.
The
following day was a long one. We climbed up some pretty steep and
treacherous rock faces. When we finally breached the wall, we were treated
to true alpine beauty. Although they're diminishing in size, Kili's
glaciers are still major league. Liz is dwarfed standing against this wall
of ice on the Furtwangler Glacier.
After
reaching our high camp at 18,500 feet, we found our training regimens had paid
dividends. While some rested for their summit attempt the following day,
we felt strong and anxious to work. We set off alone and finally reached
Kilimanjaro's "second highest summit". At 19,144 feet, the high
point overlooking the Reusch Crater gave us some spectacular views. It
also gave us some spectacularly unpleasant odors. The volcano remains
active and continues to spew large amounts of hydrogen sulfide into the
air. The leeward wall of the crater was yellow and completely coated with
sulfur. Don't be mislead by this picture of Howard standing on the edge of
the crater. It makes the crater look like a small hole in the
ground. In reality, it's about three quarters of a mile across.
Our
summit attempt came in the pre-dawn hours of the following day. As we
climbed the last 300 foot rock wall leading to the highest point in Africa, the
sun began to rise and cast a shadow of this great mountain across the
horizon. If you look closely, you'll see the shadow cutting across another
of Africa's great mountains, Mount Meru. Despite its nearly 15,000 foot
elevation, it appears small from this vantage point.
At
7:20 a.m. on the morning of July 28, 2002, Liz McCarty and Howard Jones stood
proudly on the highest point on the African continent, one of the world's
"Seven Summits". Although it wasn't the highest mountain
Howard's climbed, climbing it with his wife made it his happiest.
The
views from the summit were fabulous. Here's a view of "southern ice
field" shortly after sunrise. It shows another of Kilimanjaro's
features that make it one of the world's most diverse mountain environments.
The
first day of the descent was mostly through rock and scree. It can be
tough on old knees, but buoyed by the enthusiasm of reaching the summit, we
climbed, slid and trudged on down nearly 9,000 feet that day. Here we
paused for a picture and a brief rest.
The
second and final day of the down-climb was the most memorable. We passed
into the jungle zone and rain forest. The views were surreal as we entered
the transition zone.
It
seemed like a hundred miles of mud and jungle. The trails was a tangle of
muddy tree roots. At times, it was steep and muddy and we had all we could
do to stay upright. Here Liz can be seen working her way through the dense
vegetation. It was a lot of hard work, but frankly, it was for the most
part fun and an experience that will forever bring smiles to our faces.
We
were pleased to find a small clearing and took advantage of it to catch of brief
respite. It almost appears as if Liz is giving a talk to John Hill flanked
by Ellias and another guide, but she's probably just cleaning off some of the
mud. (Notice she missed a spot on the back side.)
Finally
down and smiling! Howard and Liz agree with all the other climbers, our
lead guide Ben has done a tremendous job. If you're considering a trip to
Kilimanjaro, you can do no better than to hook up with these guides.
As
we leave Kilimanjaro, we look back to see it one more time as darkness overtakes
us. Its majesty is more understood and appreciated for our experiences.
The
tradition of the farewell dinner is enjoyed by all back in Arusha, Tanzania.
We all went our separate ways, but we're forever bound by the experience shared
on one of the world's most magical mountains and the great experiences with the
wonderful people of Tanzania.
Just
before leaving the dinner, Howard went to take one last picture of Liz. As
the shutter was pressed, an unexpected visitor landed on the top of the wine
bottle to bid us good-bye. An unusual end to an unusual trip.